太阳能梁大理石机

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介绍:太阳束大理石机

About: Hi, Im Jack Spiggle. I enjoy all aspects of DIY and my interests include robotics, origami, woodworking, leatherwork, electronics, blacksmithing, animation, small engines, vintage machinery, stop motion, anim…

女士们,先生们,我介绍给你,我的奇妙的“太阳束大理石机”!一款黄铜大理石机,带有太阳能电源,电磁阀驱动,杠杆提升机构!

This machine uses capacitors to store energy from the sun and, once charged, dumps all that energy into a coil, pushing away a magnet, and lifting a small steel ball through the use of a lever.

在先前的梁相关的指导方中,我对术语光束的使用存在一些困惑。我不认为这是一个如此共同的概念。我多么了解,光束是从90年代后期到00s的业余爱好电子运动,它专注于将发现或普通部件转向模拟电路和机器人。https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/beam_robotics.

The circuit used here is a type of very common BEAM circuit called a solar engine which stores charge from a solar cell (or other low current power source) in a capacitor until there is enough usable energy (i.e. the capacitor voltage is high enough) to do some meaningful work. This is normally used to run a small motor in short bursts even when the sun is not strong enough to power the motor directly. It is especially helpful in this particular machine as there is no way a solar panel of this size would be able to provide the current necessary to drive the coil while capacitors have no trouble. Furthermore, even if we had the necessary power, we would not want current running through the coil at all times.

对于这个项目,单词光束适用于两个级别,一个是电子样式,第二个是主提升机构是杠杆或...横梁= D

Note: In the past I have tried taking all photos on a white background but I found, with the work I do, it often gets dirty too quick. I have tried a black background here, let me know what you think.

第1步:杠杆

这种设计中最重要的部分之一是杠杆,因为线圈和磁体会产生相当强的力,但只有当磁铁关闭时。因此,我们可以使用一阶杆将强力转化为小距离的强力成较小的力,但距离更大

第2步: The Solar Engine

The other important part of this design is the solar engine which, as mentioned in the introduction, stores energy from the solar panel in some large capacitors until there is enough to do some useful work. I used a SunEater I solar engine which you can read more about herehttp://faq.solarbotics.net/suneater/suneater.html.with some slight tweaks to work with my coil. In the past I have only used a simple FLED based solar engine however they are always finicky to get working correctly and especially with a coil dumping so much power. So I opted for the slightly more complicated, but much more robust SunEater!

您将在左侧看到我的原理图我们有2x 4700UF帽并行,这些形成了我们的能量存储的大部分。我使用了低ESR,16V电容器。低ESR让电容器放电更快,我会更优选的25V,好像某些东西失败,太阳能电池板处于全阳状态,它可以非常接近16V,并且可能损坏电容器,但是我无法找到25V低ESR电容器这个大型电容器在我当地的电子商店。您还可以注意到我用来帮助提供最初的能量的100UF电容,因为其ESR远低于4700UF的能量。我不确定这个电容是否有助于在这种特定的构建中有助于它在过去的帮助下,它已经帮助了我一直在包括它。我还有一个小电源的电源,有时电路会锁定和振荡。

我还交换了绿色LED,用作电路应触发并用8.1V齐纳二极管替换电路时的电压参考。这意味着电路不会触发,直到电容器达到约8.3V,我发现的是我的电路的适量。如果您要构建类似的东西,您可能需要实验以获得合适的价值。事实上,在我最终的设计中,我让这个二极管可更换可用于将来的调整。

我还期望高电流流过最终的PNP /线圈路径,虽然在测试最终设计时,但似乎我可以使用较小的晶体管,我选择使用Tip32功率晶体管,因为它应该更好处理大电流。

We also need a flyback diode across the coil to drain any excess power created by the coil's magnetic field collapsing on itself which could potentially damage components. In my testing I found that enough voltage was being produced to light a yellow LED quite brightly and consistently however in my final design the LED does not light and I am not at all sure why. I think I will try replace it with a red one next chance I get.

第3步:初步测试

在建立任何内容之前,我想确保这个项目实际上工作。过去,我已经尝试过梁项目的梁和磁铁,其结果非常令人失望,因为它是将动力转换为运动的更低效的方式,而不是说出电机甚至目的的构建螺线管。唉,我已经卷绕了前面的一个上述项目的合适的线圈,并且真的希望为这一个使用它。

I built a crude lever arm and breadboarded the SunEater I solar engine.

在测试中,我发现我需要比我想象的更大的存储电容更大的存储电容器(2x 4700uf帽或总共9400f),收费高于我所希望的(约8.2V)。同样,我需要更强大的磁铁,所以我出去买了一些与我的线圈一样宽的N45磁铁。即使我仍然无法抬起球轴承非常高,但结果对我来说很有希望。

第4步:让我们开始!

尽管我仍然不知道这是否会工作,但我决定开始。幸运的是,它确实有效,就像你会看到的那样,我经常测试,同时让这是为了确保一切仍在我期待。

Instead of going through the size of brass rods and tubes I use in every step, I will list the general sizes for each application here. All brass rods/tubes are K&S brass as it is easy to find, I like the hardness, and all the rods and tubes are designed to fit well inside each other which I use a couple of times throughout this build


Lever mounts: 4mm square brass tube

Lever arms: 2mm brass rod in 3mm square brass tube

Other lever parts: Various 2 or 3mm brass sheet

Large supports: 3/32 inch brass rod

所有其他支持:1/16英寸黄铜棒

All track: 1/16 inch brass rod

轨道切换杆管:3/32黄铜管

FreeForm电路连接:0.81mm或1/16英寸黄铜棒

Step 5: Winding the Coil

As mentioned, I had built the coil with the hopes of using it in another project. I actually intended it to be used in the brass dragonfly that I posted on here a couple years ago so luckily I have some photos of winding it.

正如您所看到的,我开始使用纸板的形式,铝管短长度和一些M3硬件。然后我在钻头中夹住了它并开始蜿蜒。

I'm not sure how many turns it is but you can see in the pictures the final dimensions of the coil (I didn't even have callipers back then!) as well as the inductance. Luckily I am studying electrical engineering so I could measure the coils inductance with my universities LCR bridge but it isn't important anyway.

Diameter: 20mm

高度:〜7mm

电感:1.2MH.

Resistance (no photo): 8 ohm

第6步:构建杠杆 - 第1部分

下一步是开始建造所有黄铜部件。我从杠杆手臂开始,因为这是其他一切将会建造的。

我加入了Illustrator的快速设计,并将其转移到一些黄铜中以切出(我用指甲油和激光切割器来剪掉,但肯定是更好的方式)。

接下来我将一些3mm方形管焊接到黄铜件上。这些将容纳2mm圆形条,最终将连接到滚珠架。我这样做了这种方式使调整更容易。

第7步:构建杠杆 - 第2部分

接下来我在一些8x4x3mm轴承中按下,以便我可以一起焊接两半。不幸的是,我猜从下一个焊接步骤中的热量使他们抓住了一点,所以我最终做了什么只是打磨他们跑的黄铜杆,所以轴承甚至不需要旋转,真的不需要旋转甚至需要轴承了!我想我应该用青铜衬套在某个点上更换轴承,使钢轴承不会戴上黄铜轴。

In any case, I soldered the halves together with that brass piece with the funny protrusion. The protrusion is there because I didn't yet know how the lever would balance so I didn't know if I would need to add weight to this side or the other one and I was planning to build weight off that protrusion if needed. It ended up slightly balanced too heavy on this side so I ended up cutting the entire protrusion off later, once the whole lever was built.

第8步:一个警告的故事......

在试图释放轴承时,我将一个4毫米的黄铜棒夹在我的钻头中并尽快旋转它。在某些时候它被抓住了,整个事情都飞过了,完全分开了。我花了半个小时牢固地寻找雨中的那些零件(当我在外面旋转时)并通过筛选湿泥和叶子来最终在我的屋顶排水沟中找到2个。

... 学过的知识

Step 9: Building the Lever Mounting Posts and Axle

下一步是建造杠杆安装柱,因为再一次,一切都将基于这个杠杆,所以我需要知道它在做任何其他事情之前它是如何坐的。

要使帖子我使用4毫米方向管道,并焊接在较长的顶部的小部分。然后我冲刷一切。

我的计划是将Axel牢固地安装在柱子中,但仍然可拆卸,所以我拿到4毫米的圆形杆,并在每一端提起3mm方形部分,以适应4mm方形管内。这真的很好。

我最终在杠杆的每一侧使用2个小橡胶O环,以保持其在轴上以轴为中心。

第10步:构建杠杆 - 第3部分

接下来我通过添加球持轨道完成杠杆。我安装了一小部分弯曲,1.6mm黄铜棒(将用于使所有轨道制造到两个,长2mm棒上,如前所述,将适合3mm黄铜方形管。你稍后会看到这一点,但我真的很喜欢使用蓝色钉子来占据焊接的零件,尽管它在很热时会得到粘性和混乱。

In order to keep a snug fit in the base I ended up laser cutting the square holes in the base for the posts in order to get them really tight and accurate. I actually designed the hole to be 3.8mm in my drawing so that it would be a super tight fit. At this point I am just guessing on the size of the base and placement of the lever. The base ended up being too small and needed to be changed very soon after this step but it was a great reference for drawing up the final base so I am very happy I did it this way.

第11步:杠杆上的一个单词

您可以从我的插图绘图中看到,我最初设想了杠杆才能坐下。这是问题的是,重心坐在轴上,所以在抬起球后,它永远不会想回到我画作的位置,它想继续旋转,使其倒挂旋转。显而易见的一旦杠杆在你手中,在2D,数字绘图中并不那么明显。

幸运的是,通过将杠杆翻转并将磁铁旋转,另一种方式,我得到了它,使得重心在我拥有它时设置时的重心在轴上。当我发现在测试时,需要降低的重心,以始终将杠杆臂拉回其平衡休息状态,而不是试图保持旋转。具有重心仍然有些靠近轴的意味着没有多大的额外能量使用抬起杠杆,你可以想象如果重心的重心要低得多,就像有一个大,僵硬的重量垂下,很多需要能量来提升不帮助钢球的重量。

第12步:跟踪制作101

这是我建造的第一个大理石轨道,所以我从这个视频中获得了一些有用的提示:

我最终使用1/16英寸(或1.6毫米)的黄铜杆用于轨道和8毫米钢球。通过视频的推荐,我的线圈围绕1/4英寸(或6.35mm)为8mm的4/5为6.4mm。最后,这实际上证明只是有点大,我估计一个6毫米的杆,8mm球和1.6毫米的杆。

与视频中不同,我发现只要我需要焊接任何东西,就发现了这两个部分,否则我的过程与视频中的过程非常相似。

我发现的另一件事是,夹具并不总是最好的,只能用于直线轨道,所以我用我的数字卡钳(大约6.5mm)测量了工作轨道的内部,并使用了我的呼叫者正确地空间转弯和螺旋的轨道。

Step 13: Starting the Track

Finally now we can start on the track. I begun by bending some of the 1.6mm rod around a 10mm form such that the ball will fall down through the hole. Then I straightened out the ends slightly narrower than the width of the ball for the rest of this section of track. Finally we add the half round supports

然后我开始把轨道放在基地上,实现了基础太小了!测试并看看这是否会像这一点一样起作用,这仍然是一个好时机,我仍然不确定。确认杠杆可以抬起球,同样重要的是,我自身回去,我搬到了最终基地。

Step 14: Building the Final Base - Part 1

所以我设计了向上和激光切割较大的底座。有4层3mm胶合板包围2层木。我这样做是这样做的,因为我想要所有的黄铜支撑,尽可能多地经历了木材,并且是超级坚固的。

但我也希望它看起来不错,所以前2层木材像盒盖一样胶合,所以他们可以在没有标签的情况下插入。外面,侧面板也有最小的标签。整件事人被设计成有一个轻微的唇缘,使任何流浪球留在底座上并且不会丢失。

在第一张照片中,您可以看到所有部分。在第二个中,您可以看到基部的标签部分粘在一起,没有顶部和侧面(忽略额外的插槽)。在最后2张照片中,您可以看到我所做的盖子上的顶部。

第15步:建立最终的基础 - 第2部分

接下来我喷涂涂上基部黑色的外部部分。记得从轻型外套开始,不要忘记翻转两侧并像唇部内部一样可见,喷洒侧面的顶部。我知道我想要一个黑色的基地,但不认为扁平的黑色会削减它,所以我用砂纸回去了,做了几层油漆和打磨回到最后的外观。

最后,我为黄铜指甲钻了一些洞。这些始终应该是装饰性,但我决定用它们作为真正的钉子,在我的胶水套时举行工作。我也想象着黑色的木材“皮肤”会在胶合后滑落,而不是粘在底座上,因为我喜欢可拆卸的一切。不幸的是,因为我在木材工作时真的很糟糕,指甲太靠近了外木件的内表面,并最终推开了整个外观,远离内箱。所以我很快决定去除所有钉子并直接粘在外面的面板上,使得一旦胶水干燥,我就可以将钉子放回正确的钉子。

第16步:建立最终的基础 - 第3部分

Later on in the project I decided I didn't like the bright white wood against the black paint as much as I did when the wood was slightly darker (whenever I wiped it down with rubbing alcohol it looked so much better) so I oiled the entire base with 2 coats of boiled linseed oil. It also gave it a nice, natural sheen which I was very happy with. I added back in the brass nails once everything was dry.

I was really happy with how this base turned out and I will likely do the same worn, spray paint look on future projects!

Step 17: Mounting the Coil

山或线圈在正确的位置iginally planning on using laser cut wood supports but I felt that would cover too much of the mechanism. Instead I came up with what I think was a really elegant "claw" design inspired by stone setting techniques. I filed the square tube end with a round needle file so that it would fit better over the support. By bending the arm that slides into the square tube slightly there is enough friction to keep it fixed in there really securely.

步骤18:轨道切换杆 - 第1部分

The next step was building the lever to switch between the two tracks. I wanted this marble track to be as dynamic as possible for such a small track so always planned to have 2 paths.

焊接这是一个非常艰难的部分,因为在靠近近距离有这么多的关节,所以我必须用帮助手和布鲁钉钉起来,以便我可以在一次射击中焊接它。我把顶部与钳子保持着,但我可能应该用另一个帮助手握住这一点。

我还在3/32黄铜管中钻了一个小孔,这实际上是困难的,因为钻头只有1.2mm并由碳化物制成(用于用CNC钻孔PCB)。然而,我觉得这是值得做的,更轻松地油杠杆一旦完全组装。

Important:更狡猾的杠杆东西。与大理石升降杆相比,我找到了对此杠杆的相对。你永远不希望它找到它的平衡。因此,侧臂应该足够短,使得重心高于枢轴,使得当杠杆落到一侧时,它想要保持落到该侧面。如果侧臂太长并且重心低,当被大理石推动时,它不会留在每一侧。

步骤19:轨道切换杆 - 第2部分

Next up is mounting the track switching lever and supporting bits and bobs. A short section of 1.6mm brass was soldered to the mounting post for the lever to pivot on.

I also made a brass guard rail in case the balls come off the lever with too much velocity (not a big problem in my testing but it did happen). As well, this section of brass bends down and underacts as the stops for the switching lever.

我还用它的孔切成一小部分黄铜,将其焊接到轨道上并保持在杠杆轴的另一端而不必须焊接到杠杆轴上。这是因为我知道我必须清除杠杆拆卸,以便在没有加热轴的情况下清除机制,并且在没有加热轴的情况下,我希望能够采用一种方法来固定一切。

I do eventually cut everything down to the correct length I just see little reason to just yet =)

第20步:Zig Zig轨道 - 第1部分

现在是时候开始两条轨道了!首先,我发现了一堆圆形物体来包裹我的电线。这需要试验和误差超过精确的测量,因为黄铜电线是弹性的,并且完全形成圆形形式。在弯曲后,它也很容易稍微调整曲线的半径。显示的是我使用的4个圆形物体,螺旋轨道。

我不得不在两个部分中制作曲目。我通过制作适当的弯曲,在我的夹具上衬到杆,然后在半圆的支撑上焊接来构建每个部分。

然后,我在两个部分冲洗之间打开关节,打破了轨道的所有边缘,用针文件加入,并将它们焊接在一起。我发现我需要大量的焊料,如果我想靠近一个坚实的联合,我也发现你真的想要小心,以免让焊料在轨道内部积聚并抑制球小路。

第21步:Zig Zig曲目 - 第2部分

接下来我直接在底座上铺设轨道,并标记我想要漏洞的地方。当然,赛道将被倾斜,所以这些孔位置并不完美,但每次我都不想要钻一个新洞,我不想让整个轨道脱落,所以我刚刚在洞穴位置猜测并钻了他们所有人一次。如前所述,我想要紧紧适合所有的支持,所以我将洞钻出到1.5毫米并强制了1.6毫米的棒。

然后它只是将支撑杆切割成尺寸和焊接的问题。我削减了它们的稍微短,所以我不仅可以提高,而且一切都在一起,还可以在一起进行微调。这结果是非常有帮助,并且底座中的孔足够紧,这仍然是令人难以置信的坚实。

第22步:螺旋轨道 - 第1部分

与螺旋轨道进行非常相似的交易,除了使用夹具更难地铺设支撑间距或保持轨道宽度,所以我依赖于我的数字卡列普。赛道再次用两部分制成并一起焊接

第2步3.: Spiral Track - Part 2

Mounting the spiral track to the base as I did the zig zag track, the track is now finished! perfect time to test everything still works

在这一点上,在这么多的工作之后,我终于可以看到我脑子里的成品,一切都正如我所希望的那样工作。我很欣喜若狂。

第24步:最终触摸

在透明涂覆黄铜之前,添加了几件事。

1.添加了一些支撑到每条轨道的末端,而不是结构原因,但因为我注意到使用这些额外的支撑,球将无法过度过冲杠杆臂,而是将击中支撑并落入杠杆中。虽然我的最终赛道足够缓慢,但这绝不是一个关注的,它有时会在测试中发生。

2.为线圈臂添加了额外的支撑。这始终是计划,因为线圈和杠杆臂上存在很多压力。

3.你可能已经注意到一些蓝丁胶杆arm while testing. This was to perfectly balance the arm. Obviously I did not want blu tack in the final design so after weighing the blu tack with some precise scales I soldered on a length of brass and sanded it until I hit the perfect balance.

4.未示出,但在下一个步骤中透明涂层后,我将一些黑色的热泉水放在杠杆击中的柱子上,以阻止其动量。添加了这是为了保护透明涂层,软化吹扫并减轻噪音。

步骤25:清除涂层轨道

I always wanted to clear coat everything I could as I knew I may be leaving this marble machine outdoors. I found this brass and copper specific clear coat in my local hardware store and used that.

如在轨道切换杆步骤的尽头所述,我知道我不得不清楚地涂上杠杆,然后焊接在最终的支撑和掩模上,全部透明涂抹其余的涂层。否则杠杆和轴肯定会从透明涂层上拔下。

I prepared all the brass and masked off the bearings just with some blu tack then sprayed all the brass parts. The spray worked very well for the lever, however it left a very bumpy surface on the tracks and other parts. I think maybe this was because it was too hot on the day I sprayed the remaining parts and the coating flashed off before evening out.

In any case, it left a matte surface on the parts which was also very rough however it smoothed out very quick with some wet sanding with 1500 grit sandpaper. I then went over the track portion with 2000 grit to make sure it was as frictionless as possible for the ball.

I am happy with the clear coat as it seems super durable and worked great on the track switching lever however, even after sanding smooth, the rest of the parts are noticeably duller than the lever or unsprayed brass parts because of the way it dried. If anyone has any ideas how to fix this for next time, let me know.

第2步6: Mounting the Solar Panel.

Now we will move onto the electronics. I start by mounting the solar panel as that is what the rest of the electronics will be built off.

I laid out the supports in place to make sure I would be happy with how everything sat in the end. Then I roughed up the solar panel with a file in the places I knew I would be putting epoxy. I will need to epoxy the supports to the panel as it will be quite easy to bump once assembled and it on a tall support, both things that will threaten to rip the panel off the supports. I also took away some of the solder mask in places to make a couple more solder points for even more support.

第2步7: Free Form Circuit

Unfortunately, if I went into depth, free-forming the circuit would be a massive Instructable on its own (and I think I will make one for free-forming at some point). On top of that, it is more of an art than a set of instructions so I think it would be best to just describe my process rather than individual steps.

对于这个特定的电路,我知道它是一个棘手的排除术语,因为它在一段时间难以测试的时间是我通常喜欢构建的时间。因此,我决定尽可能靠近我以尽可能最大限度地放置误区的方式。

I start by making my positive and negative rail. Often this is a very good place to start. Although it may not always be the most elegant and aesthetically pleasing way to lay out simpler circuits, it is very useful for slightly more complicated ones. Each rail is supported on the opposite side through a small, 10nF, axial capacitor. This too is something I often do as not only is it a great way to massively boost the rigidity of the circuit, I also found in testing that I actually needed to put a 10nF capacitor across the power rails of my prototype otherwise sometimes the circuit would not properly trigger and would oscillate.

然后我开始焊接类似于我将它们连接在面包板上的组件。您可以跟踪通过照片的方式如何实现这一目标。我所做的一个奇怪的事情是用齐纳二极管的插座,使得如果在将来,盖子或线圈变弱,或摩擦在提升杆上堆积起来,并且杠杆不再可靠地抬起球,我可以为具有更高击穿的齐纳二极管改变齐纳二极管,希望在没有大量变化的情况下保持机器工作。

Important:您可能会注意到,我在正极和负铁路上有一个电阻。这是一个小型100欧姆电阻,确保太阳能电池板在完成后不开始激活电路,可能会破坏组件。刚刚缩短太阳能电池板的正负负面也可以工作。

第2步8.: Brass Name Plate

最后的装饰触摸,我认为这一切都在一起关系,是黄铜名牌。我首先在插画家中设计了我的设计,然后用指甲油清洗并涂上适当大小的黄铜。然后,激光蚀刻钉子抛光,我希望最后一部分是黑色的,在我希望黄铜展示的地方留下了波兰语。然后我将黄铜安装到一些泡沫中,并将其留在1部分30%盐酸的混合物中至2份3%过氧化氢。我忘记了它,留下了太长,大约2个小时,所以一些字母和边缘很不错,但我认为它会增加魅力。

终于我上我的名字,,充满了夏娃rything in with nail polish (proper enamel is what should be used but I knew I wanted to clear coat everything anyway), and sanded back to the raised brass sections once the nail polish was completely dry.

第29步:未来改进

我非常高兴这一出现了,但我确实有一些未来的改进我可能会产生。我想我会添加一个简单地通过小电阻器短路的开关,以便我可以有效地关闭设备,因为这是大部分电路电路上缺少的功能。

I also noticed that in full sunlight, the circuit charges faster than it takes for the ball to roll back down the track. If I had known this could be the case, perhaps I could have designed for a way to use multiple balls however for the time being I am trying to think of a simple timing circuit that won't allow the circuit to trigger again until enough time has passed. The problem there is that the extra energy still being produced by the panel has to go somewhere. Maybe I will make it spin a motor for a second, we will see =)

在任何情况下,我都有坐在阴凉的阳台上的电路,所以现在它很棒。

我仍然肯定需要清除电路,但是我会等待先查看我是否先添加这些其他改进。

Thanks for reading!

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    17.Comments

    0.
    嘿jude.

    5天前

    Really loved this project. So many skills under a great idea. Thanks for sharing, and also citing your inspirations/sources. Props.

    0.
    达里安肾

    小费14 days ago on第29步

    OFF开关可以像电阻插入电路的电阻一样简单。或者可选地放置易于访问标头。在清除电路之前拿到它。防风雨开关可能很昂贵。

    0.
    NanoRobotGeek

    13天前回复

    Thats a nice easy solution! Yeah I was definitely worried whatever cheap switch I decided to use would go bad pretty quick. In any case I think I may leave it without a switch after all. I mostly wanted a switch allow my family to turn it off so I don't bug them when they sit outside but they all actually seem to enjoy this one despite the noise =)

    2
    amcnotme

    26.days ago

    我真的很喜欢这个项目的每个部分都很简单,但很酷的机器。做得好!

    1
    NanoRobotGeek

    25天前回复

    谢谢你的评论!我努力写作赋予指导者,因为你有时会因为你注意到,当你打破它时,没有什么太复杂。我猜这一切都恰当地恰好是棘手的零件之一

    1
    charlessenf-gm

    27天前

    哇!
    Perpetual motion when the sun do shine.
    最令人印象深刻的指导 - 爱看到了多年来我在爱好商店中看到的那种黄铜的方式。正如已注意到的 - 最具创意,详细和艺术项目的“很长一段时间”。

    0.
    NanoRobotGeek

    25天前回复

    That is one of the things I love about these, its like a house plant for me. As long as nothing breaks it should just keep doing its thing for a decade or so. Something always breaks before then though =P.

    And yeah, I think I am addicted to K&S brass. I have so many packets Im wondering when is it necessary to buy the storage racks that the hobby shops have! It doesn't even seem like a problem because each pack is only a couple bucks and then bam! Suddenly I have too many.

    1
    NanoRobotGeek

    4周前

    更新:几天后,这里有一些我的其他电路。令人难以置信的是,大理石尚未走出轨道!

    0.
    NanoRobotGeek

    26天前回复

    更新2:一个阳光灿烂的一周后,用大理石机整天运行,每天仍然是大理石甚至没有掉下轨道。这真的很惊讶,因为它经常在测试中出现!我甚至没有像我以为我认为整个第一周的任何东西都没有调整任何东西

    1
    Kulotan

    4周前

    我印象深刻的工程和测试所需的所有问题。它可能没有真正的目的,但我喜欢它!

    0.
    NanoRobotGeek

    26天前回复

    非常感谢您的评论= D!我认为经常测试是保持对我来说的项目的关键,我真的很难保持动力,一旦我开始解决超过几个问题。至于服务没有真正的目的,我最喜欢的部分是,假设没有什么失败它应该坐在那里,仍然没有目的,在10年内!

    1
    Gascar

    小费4周前第2步

    Very nice :)!
    我认为你的领导很可能已经破了,这就是它不起作用的原因......他们真的不喜欢高反向电压。当您切换线圈时,您可能会令人惊讶的高电压。串联1n400x类型将解决此问题。
    Excellent presentation.

    2
    NanoRobotGeek

    回复4周前

    这比焊接在焊接时更加有意义。而且很棒的修复,非常感谢你,会试试!

    1
    kdemon.

    4周前

    <3这个。您认为此设备的哪一部分将首先磨损(失败)?压电收集器如何送回电容器时?

    1
    NanoRobotGeek

    回复4周前

    另一个非常棒的问题!在我的经验中,它绝对是焊点之一,因为焊料非常脆弱,并且在这样的重复压力下容易失败。我的猜测是线圈支架安装在支撑件上的位置,因为当杠杆回来时,它会非常努力地击中该部分。我确实尝试尽可能强大的那部分!否则,如果我将一切妥善放油,我希望大型电容器开始下一步但不是几年。

    也是一个很好的主意,但我认为绳索的更容易的是额外的能量。作为我们通过通过线圈塌缩通过电流而产生的磁场,它产生逆转通过线圈的电流。此外,向线圈移动回到线圈的磁铁也会反向产生电流!就像如何通过移动磁铁过去线圈产生的大部分电力。目前我只是让能量倾倒通过LED,但是你可能会利用它,尽管我认为与太阳能电池板提供的电容器/提供的电力相比,它会非常少。

    3.
    pmcclay

    4周前

    各种艺术 - 基地饰面,光束太阳能发动机,暴露的自由形式电路,蚀刻黄铜板,一堆优雅的芸苔。哦,还有双向大理石轨道。我真的很好奇为什么10nf上限会有所不同,欣赏与黄铜合作的想法。很喜欢。

    1
    NanoRobotGeek

    回复4周前

    谢谢你这样的评论!在我看来,黄铜只是最好的。比木材更强大,没有谷物。与钢铁不同,在50年内轻松操纵和逃避。易于加入焊料。

    As for the 10nF, I really should have scoped it out when it was oscillating but I had a hunch the 10nF would fix it and when it did I didnt look into it further. Im guessing the high ESR of the massive storage capacitors is the culprit as when the circuit triggers it effectively ties the positive and negative rail through the final PNP and the coil. So if the capacitors cant stabilise the rail voltage quick enough, the positive rail would drop lower than the “untrigger” voltage of the circuit. So it would just keep trying to trigger but then untriggering itself. At least thats is my hunch based on the symptoms and the fix.