Coffee Table - Walnut, Maple and Steel




Introduction: Coffee Table - Walnut, Maple and Steel

About: Find me on YouTube and Instagram (@robertjkeller)!

Finished product first.

Step 1: Dimensioning the Lumber 1/5

I got really lucky and saw an ad on Craigslist for walnut that had been drying out for 20 years for $4 a board foot. It was all rough-sawn, so I need to mill it down. I also picked up a maple board from the local woodworking store for the stripes.

Step 2: Dimensioning the Lumber 2/5

I started by running a face of each board through the jointer...

Step 3: Dimensioning the Lumber 3/5

......然后将平面面向沿着Jointer的栅栏换挡边缘(在这个特殊的镜头中,我首先运行边缘,因为这个板必须在桌子上撕开,然后在它可以穿过我的6 1之前撕开桌子。/ 8“Jointer--我回去了,然后重新碾碎了)。

Step 4: Dimensioning the Lumber 4/5

I then planed each board with the jointed side down, resulting in 3 out of 4 sides of the boards being flattened/true.

Step 5: Dimensioning the Lumber 5/5

Lastly, I ripped each board to its final width-- 6" for the 3 walnut boards and 3" for the 2 strips of maple. I also trimmed all 5 boards to their final length of 48".

Step 6: The Glue-up 1/3

Here I am starting the glue-up. I just used regular Titebond II. My next project will be a nice, big, flat workbench, after doing this on the floor of my garage...

Step 7: The Glue-up 2/3

Glue-up went pretty well... I think I had everything in place and clamped within about 10 minutes.

Step 8: The Glue-up 3/3

I've learned from the past that wiping off the excess glue with a wet rag before it dries is WELL worth it.

Step 9: Filling Holes With Epoxy

I filled in a couple little wormholes with regular 2-part epoxy. I think the brand I used was Gorilla Glue.

Step 10: Sanding

I sanded all the way up to 320 with an orbital sander, then hand sanded with 400-grit.

Step 11: Finishing the Wood 1/2

I used Watco Butcher Block finish as the only finish on the tabletop. It isn't the most protective finish, and requires a little maintenance, but I love the look and feel of it.

Step 12: Finishing the Wood 2/2

You can see here how it really brings out the natural character of the wood, and leaves the maple nice and white.

Step 13: Cutting the Base

For the steel base I used 1/2" angle iron. The final dimension were 1/2" shorter than the top on all sides to leave a 1/2" overhang, so 23" x 47".

Step 14: Welding the Base

I welded the base together, keeping everything as square and lined up as possible.

Step 15: Painting the Base

I used this flat black product by Rust-oleum and am very happy with the results. I got a couple of drips, but I sanded them off and applied a light second coat.

Step 16: Attaching the Top to the Base 1/3


Step 17: Attaching the Top to the Base 2/3

I drilled pilot holes first, as I really didn't want to split the wood at this point...

Step 18: Attaching the Top to the Base 3/3

The clips have been working great-- they keep the base on very firmly, but do have some give to them if the wood decides that it needs a little more breathing room someday.

Step 19: Finished Pictures

And here's the finished product in the place where it'll live for quite some time, hopefully!

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    3 years ago

    How much did the whole project cost you ?

    Josehf Murchison

    3 years ago

    很好看的,如何did you buff the welds on the base?


    3 years ago

    The screen clips are a great idea!! Great looking coffee table. Voted