Coffee Table - Walnut, Maple and Steel

8,607

102.

4

Introduction: Coffee Table - Walnut, Maple and Steel

About: Find me on YouTube and Instagram (@robertjkeller)!

Finished product first.

Step 1: Dimensioning the Lumber 1/5

I got really lucky and saw an ad on Craigslist for walnut that had been drying out for 20 years for $4 a board foot. It was all rough-sawn, so I need to mill it down. I also picked up a maple board from the local woodworking store for the stripes.

Step 2: Dimensioning the Lumber 2/5

I started by running a face of each board through the jointer...

Step 3: Dimensioning the Lumber 3/5

......然后将平面面向沿着Jointer的栅栏换挡边缘(在这个特殊的镜头中,我首先运行边缘,因为这个板必须在桌子上撕开,然后在它可以穿过我的6 1之前撕开桌子。/ 8“Jointer--我回去了,然后重新碾碎了)。

Step 4: Dimensioning the Lumber 4/5

I then planed each board with the jointed side down, resulting in 3 out of 4 sides of the boards being flattened/true.

Step 5: Dimensioning the Lumber 5/5

Lastly, I ripped each board to its final width-- 6" for the 3 walnut boards and 3" for the 2 strips of maple. I also trimmed all 5 boards to their final length of 48".

Step 6: The Glue-up 1/3

Here I am starting the glue-up. I just used regular Titebond II. My next project will be a nice, big, flat workbench, after doing this on the floor of my garage...

Step 7: The Glue-up 2/3

Glue-up went pretty well... I think I had everything in place and clamped within about 10 minutes.

Step 8: The Glue-up 3/3

I've learned from the past that wiping off the excess glue with a wet rag before it dries is WELL worth it.

Step 9: Filling Holes With Epoxy

I filled in a couple little wormholes with regular 2-part epoxy. I think the brand I used was Gorilla Glue.

Step 10: Sanding

I sanded all the way up to 320 with an orbital sander, then hand sanded with 400-grit.

Step 11: Finishing the Wood 1/2

I used Watco Butcher Block finish as the only finish on the tabletop. It isn't the most protective finish, and requires a little maintenance, but I love the look and feel of it.

Step 12: Finishing the Wood 2/2

You can see here how it really brings out the natural character of the wood, and leaves the maple nice and white.

Step 13: Cutting the Base

For the steel base I used 1/2" angle iron. The final dimension were 1/2" shorter than the top on all sides to leave a 1/2" overhang, so 23" x 47".

Step 14: Welding the Base

I welded the base together, keeping everything as square and lined up as possible.

Step 15: Painting the Base

I used this flat black product by Rust-oleum and am very happy with the results. I got a couple of drips, but I sanded them off and applied a light second coat.

Step 16: Attaching the Top to the Base 1/3

起初我将通过底座钻孔并拧紧它,然后认为随着木材自然地扩展和随着时间的推移,如果它直接安装,它就不会有任何房间钢框架。相反,我使用了窗口屏幕的这些剪辑。

Step 17: Attaching the Top to the Base 2/3

I drilled pilot holes first, as I really didn't want to split the wood at this point...

Step 18: Attaching the Top to the Base 3/3

The clips have been working great-- they keep the base on very firmly, but do have some give to them if the wood decides that it needs a little more breathing room someday.

Step 19: Finished Pictures

And here's the finished product in the place where it'll live for quite some time, hopefully!

First Time Author Contest 2018

Participated in the
First Time Author Contest 2018

Be the First to Share

    Recommendations

    • Sculpt & Carve Challenge

      Sculpt & Carve Challenge
    • Trash to Treasure Contest

      Trash to Treasure Contest
    • Woodworking Contest

      Woodworking Contest

    4 Comments

    0
    WarCatss

    3 years ago

    How much did the whole project cost you ?

    0
    Josehf Murchison

    3 years ago

    很好看的,如何did you buff the welds on the base?

    0
    ClenseYourPallet

    3 years ago

    The screen clips are a great idea!! Great looking coffee table. Voted